Arancine encore → on LIPARI ISLAND

archestratus arancine part two

WHAT IS INSIDE THIS LETTER?

the latest

a cooking class

a list of flavors

a beurre blanc vid

recipes for garlic scape pesto, basil pesto, beurre blanc + toum

more deleuze via arancine

+ piu!

T H E

L A T E S T

No. 1 →

For more RECIPES, JOY, DARKNESS, ART, PERSONAL + SPECIFICALLY SICILIAN STUFF, keep following me in this newsletter.

Missives are twice a month, mid month, and the next one will go out for subscribers on August 11th. 

No. 2 →

Thank you to everyone who came out for the hang at the park on Sunday. The weather was glorious and the company even more so. See you at the next meet-up on August 22nd at the Union Square Greenmarket. Just pop in.

LAST CUTIES STANDING

No. 3 →

A list of exactly one hundred books to support through preorder. The funny thing about this list is that I didn’t mean to make it anywhere close to 100, but I could not stop myself. Nor did I intend to make it exactly 100! It feels fated!

No. 4 →

Here is the link to my moving sale. I am going to keep updating it. Listed so far: a large marble countertop for $100, a twelve foot iron countertop for a little less than $1000, a robocoupe, a kitchenaid, a commercial milk frother (latte art at home), and more.

goodbye big beloved things

No. 5 →

Book Clubs will never die! Join the LIPARI ISLAND Book Club on August 2nd at 1p over ZOOM. Those on the west coast can join at 10a, and those who are in Europe can also join in the evening around 7p ish, depending. We are reading the novel Sphinx by Anne Garréta. Scroll down for more details.

No. 6 →

If you are still looking for ways to use your gift card from the last newsletter — we now have our favorite high smoke point oil that we used for the charred garlic scape dish in the beurre blanc video below available on the website. I know you have no idea what I’m talking about, but hopefully it will all become clear in time.

upcoming events

SUNDAY AUGUST 2 / LIPARI ISLAND Book Club

SUNDAY AUGUST 30 / A cooking class on Arancine

online class alert

click pic to sign up, $44 on zoom

a list of some arancine flavors

“Burnt Ends” Pork + Mozz
4 Cheese + Pepper
Anchovy + Potato
Antipast
Antipast + Mozz
Arthur Russell’s ’s Corn Field (mozz + ragusano)
Arugula + Cabbage
Arugula + Scallion + Cheese
Arugula Pesto + Mayocoba Beans + Mozz
Arugula Pesto + Mozz
Asparagus + Caper + Egg
Bacon + Spaghetti + Caciocavallo
Basil Pesto Mozz
Bean + Squash + Pepper + Olive + Ricotta + Mozzarella
Beans + Greens + Mozz
Beef Burnt Ends + Mozz
Black Pepper Ham + Mozz
Blue Cheese, Grapes + Mozz
Braised Beef + Mozz
Braised Beef Ragu + Mozz
Broccoli Rabe + Garlic + Mozzarella
Broccoli Rabe + Toum + Provolone
Burrata
Butternut Squash + Mozz
Cabbage + Corn + Jalapeño + Zucchini
Cabbage, Squash, Basil, Mozz Delight
Calabrian Chili + Mozzarella
Caponata + Mozz
Carbonara-ish
Carrot Top Pesto + Mozz
Cauliflower + Trapani Pesto + Mozz
Celery Basil Pesto
Chard + Squash + Garlic + Kale + Mozz
Chicken Parm
Chili + Ricotta + Mozz
Cod Cake Arancine
Cod, Currant, Pine nut + Mozz
Corn + Mozz
Eggnog Cream Cheese
Eggplant + Amogghio + Mozz
Eggplant + Ricotta Salata
Eggplant + Runner Bean
Eggplant + Tomato + Mozzarella
Eggplant Parm
Eggplant parm and mozz
Eggplant, Amogghio + Mozz
Escarole + Olive
Fennel + Onion + Cheese
Fish Sauce
Fresh Mozzarella
Garlic Scape Pesto + Mozz
Garlicky Pork + Mozz
Greens + Burrata
Ham + Mozz
Ham and Breadcrumbs
Headcheese + Mozz
Hot Pepper + Winter Greens + Mozz
Japanese Sweet Potato + Mozz
Kale + Anchovy + Bean + Pepper
Lamb “Burnt Ends”
Lamb + Gravy
Lamb + Mozz
Lamb + Potato + Gravy
Lamb Gravy + Roasted Apple + Mozz
Lamb Ragu + Mozz
Lentil + Zesty + Mozz
Maitake + Smoked Mozz
Mashed Potato & Lamb Gravy
Mayacoba Bean + Cheese
Mayocoba Bean + Calabrian Chili
Meatball + Mozz
Mortadella + Caciocavallo
Mortadella + Caciocavallo + Agrodolce Onion
Mortadella + Florentino
Mortadella + Garlic + Caciocavallo
Mortadella + Garlic + Mozz
Mortadella + Mozz
Mortadella + Mozzarella + Toum
Mortadella + Ricotta Salata + Mozzarella + Toum
Mortadella + Squash + Corn + Cabbage + Hot Pepper
Mushroom + Mozz
Mustard Greens + Mozzarella
Nettle Pesto + Mozz
Nonna’s Chicken + Mozz
Olive + Ricotta + Sundried Tomato + Chile
Olive, Caper + Bean
Onion Agrodolce + Mozz
Pea Shoot + Pesto
Pesto, Ricotta + Mozz
Pine Nuts, Currants, Garlic, Anchovy
Pork + Apple + Mozz
Pork + Bean
Pork + Kale + Mozz Pork + Provolone
Pork + Squash + Chili
Pork + Sweet Pepper + Mozzarella
Pork + Toum + Mozzarella
Pork fried rice
Pork Ragu
Potato + Onion + Eggplant + Caper
Ragu + Mozz
Ragu + Potato + Tomato
Ramp Pesto + Caciocavallo
Ramp Pesto + Mozzarella Red Pepper + Breadcrumb Spread + Mozz

Rib + Mozz Ricotta Salata + Arugula + Provolone
Roast apple + ricotta
Roasted Cabbage + Mozz
Roasted Cauliflower + Toum + Mozz
Roasted Eggplant + Amogghio + Mozz
Roasted endive + goat cheese + provolone
Roasted Grape, Black Olive, Golden Raisin & Fennel Frond
Roasted Veg + Squash + Mozzarella
Salmon + Ricotta
Salmon, Sour Cream + Parsley
Sausage + Agrodolce Onion + Parsley
Sausage + Pepper + Onion
Sausage, Broccoli Rabe + Mozz
Scallop + Tomato + Mozz
Shishito + Squash
Short Rib + Mozz
Smoked Ham + Onion + Mozz
Smoked Whitefish + Mozzarella
Spiced Pork + Provolone
Spiced Pork Ribs + Provolone
Spinach + Ricotta Salata
Squash + Corn + Cabbage + Hot Pepper
Squash + Lamb Gravy + Mozz
Squash + Mozz
Squash + Mozz + Basil + Ricotta Salata
Squash + Ricotta Salata
Summer Squash + Caciocavallo
Summer Squash + Corn
Summer Squash + Sausage
Summer Squash Frittata + Mozz
Sweet and Sour Squash + Bean
Sweet Potato + Burrata
Sweet potato + Carrot Top Pesto + Mozz
Sweet Potato + Lamb Gravy
Sweet Potato, Carrot Top Pesto + Mozz
Sweet Potato, Pesto + Mozz
Swordfish + Lemon + Caper
Trapani Pesto + Mozz
Turkey + Kale + Ricotta
Turkey + Bechamel
Turkey Kale + Mozz
Vegan Arugula + Sweet Burnt Bean
Vegan Arugula Pesto
Vegan Broccoli Rabe, Arugula, + Japanese Potato
Vegan Butternut + Green Garlic + Parsley
Vegan Butternut Squash + Basil
Vegan Butternut Squash + Snap Pea + Roasted Cabbage Vegan Cabbage + Kale + Japanese Sweet Potato + Hot Pepper Vegan Carrot Apple Onion Sage + Hot Pepper
Vegan Cauliflower Caper + Garlic
Vegan Cauli + Kale + Cabbage + Caper
Vegan Corn + Basil + Shishito
Vegan Corn and Cabbage
Vegan Creamy Bean + Cilantro
Vegan Dill Cabbage + Potato
Vegan Eggplant + Amogghio
Vegan Fall Vegetable
Vegan Fig + Olive + Onion
Vegan Green Garlic + Mushroom
Vegan Green Garlic Arugula
Vegan Kale + Butternut Squash
Vegan Kale + Peperoncini
Vegan Kale, Mayocoba Bean + Macaroni
Vegan Maitake + Bean
Vegan Mushroom + Parsley
Vegan Pea Shoot + Veg
Vegan Pepper + Kale
Vegan Pumpkin + Basil + Kale Vegan Pumpkin + Pepper
Vegan Ramp Pesto + Roasted Cabbage
Vegan Roasted Greens + Radicchio + Lettuce Pesto
Vegan Roasted Vegetable
Vegan Spicy Bean + Veg
Vegan Spicy Cabbage + Pumpkin
Vegan Squash + Black Olive
Vegan Squash + Broccoli Rabe
Vegan Squash + Greens
Vegan Squash + Hot Pepper
Vegan Squash + Scallion + Basil
Vegan Squash, Olive + Pepper
Vegan Summer Greens
Vegan Summer Veg with Basil
Vegan Sweet + Sour Onion + Golden Raisins + Capers Vegan Sweet Burnt Bean + Arugula
Vegan Trapani Pesto
Vegan Trapani Pesto + Cauliflower
Vegan Ube and greens
Vegan Zesty Bok Choi + Bean
Vegan Zucchini + Mayocoba Bean
Vegan Zucchini, Parsnip, Bean + Carrot
Vegan Black Chickpea + Golden Beet + Opal Basil Vegan Fennel + Onion + Cabbage
Vegetable Medley + Anchovy Sauce
Vegetable Symphony (Broccolini + Beets + Bakchoi + Potatoes + Mozzarella)
Vegetarian Fried Rice
Vegetarian Ube and Greens
Zucchini + Mayocoba Bean + Mozz
Zucchini, Buerre Blanc + Mozz

ARCHESTRATUS

ARANCINE,

survival mode,

+ the

plane of immanence

Some recipes hold concepts.

Arancine are where abstract flavors go to play in the sand. An arancine can give shape to our chaotic list of kitchen leftovers, and consistency to our menu.

Foods that can hold concepts must start with a strong base for this experimentation to stand on. I can tell you the Rice recipe from last week was instituted to stand on its own, like a frozen lake or a canvas. My recipe for arancine rice has a lil more cheese and egg than generally called upon, and a less common method for forging a crunchy shell.

One could say each new arancine flavor generated is like a sandcastle: the white pork fat left behind after roasting, the fennel on its way out, the forgotten zucchini. Something formless takes shape, however brief.

You just scrolled past a long list of flavors. As delicious as these all were, I do not feel as though the arancine we served ever reached their creative potential because, to be honest, my psyche wouldn’t even let me access it.

I could probably sit here and come up with arancine flavor combinations that sound so much more creative than the ones above. When you are in the thick of running a bookstore and a kitchen and an events program, your playground is pretty paralyzed. The doomsday clock is always ticking.

Why am I choosing to talk about this? Know it is not to gain sympathy or beat myself up. I could go on and on about how arancine makes a great canvas for flavor, how it utilizes every ingredient in the kitchen you have to use up, or how about the element of surprise and delight it conjures (one day I might actually write about this), but the deeper truth is that I know so much was left on the table.

It’s funny, being paralyzed in survival mode can sometimes lead to very strange mishaps. For instance, I never called to add a little pepper to the arancine rice. Why? For the 8 years of running a cafe, did it truly never occur to me that there was pepper missing?

No, my subconscious knew the pepper was missing, but there was no room to change anything about the existing system.

Granted, I was a highly functioning case. We often paired arancine flavors at special author events based on their cookbooks. Like this:

This one was Thai noodle inspired and filled with vermicelli, arborio, cilantro, scallions, pork, pork rinds, lotsa fish sauce, garlic, chili’s, sriracha and more for Andy Ricker’s POK POK Noodles Recipes from Thailand and Beyond

This one was for an event with Adeena Sussman’s Sababa: Fresh, Sunny Flavors From My Israeli Kitchen: A Cookbook

I know, I know! Yum, though I think I was under the delusion that these breaks in the norm would form paths back to my creativity, an escape route from the siege on my spirit, but even these were ultimately tied to a highly pressurized output.

I am not trying to take away anyone's enjoyment, or even my own, of these delicious memories, but the numb rigidity I felt is all part of it, too. Months after closing the shop, I’ve been able to temporarily turn off the programming for the first time in a decade. Getting back to the playground is fairly simple now: I just have to record a little ‘Nonna Echo’ or write a poem or terrorize Shelley.

So, why am I writing this?

I want you to take this recipe for arancine rice and have a BLAST with it. I am calling on you to let your mind wander and allow your ideas to play together. Experiment. Arancine has infinite potential. Recognize it. Luxuriate in it. There are no rules. There is nothing to defend! Just because the road isn’t traveled doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go down it. Don’t run, friggin frolic!

Just please don’t lose touch with what could be.

For a long time, our house was filled with guests on Christmas Day. It’s where I first started to make elaborate menus and try out recipes and techniques often new to me. At some point, I believe it was just a few Christmases before I opened up the shop, I decided to make an arancine for the first time.

My mind wandered until it hit on beurre blanc and poached salmon. Nothing wild, but certainly rang true, and how would I get the beurre blanc in there? I’d never heard of a Beurre Blanc Arancine. Ah, I could chill it, cut it up into cubes, stuff it into the center, and then it should melt in the arancine while it fries. Would this work? I didn’t know for sure, but was ready to attempt it.

Arancine was immediately serving as a space to disrupt habits and conduct new ways of thinking.

I realized (after the fact) that I included my Beurre Blanc recipe below because I have warm feelings for this particular arancine I never investigated until now. It was not because it was my first, but because I was skating on the frozen lake, and from it something materialized, and then we all digested it in our happy bellies.

So few things that promise to be satisfying actually are. This newsletter is one of the ways in which I have let my creativity breathe again.

Thank you for being here.

Happy one-year anniversary to paige LIPARI ISLAND.

Now, GO MAKE SOME RICE BALLZ!

T W O

T E C H N I Q U E S

(for CRIPES level subscribers only)

DISCS vs. MIX-INS

Mi dispiace, to gain access to these recipes, you must be a paid Cripes! level Subscriber. It’s $9 a month, and we are obsessed with making this thing good—especially the recipes. Upgrade your subscription here. Thank you. We hope you cook these recipes! Email if you have any questions about them.

T W O

T E C H N I Q U E S

(for CRIPES level subscribers only)

DISCS vs. MIX-INS

There are two stuffing techniques when making arancine. Or at least, there were two for us at Archestratus! Actually three, but I’ll mention that in a sec. Discs and Mix-Ins:

Disc method where you put the filling in the center of the arancine. Very traditional and actually the only way I’ve ever seen it outside of the shop. This one is Eggplant Parm.

A vegan mix-in with butternut squash, toum, spinach, and likely more!

Also note that I’ve never seen how people in commercial kitchens make arancine, but this is what felt like the best way to do it. The only videos I’ve ever seen of Italian chefs doing this are standing at the counter and getting a little rice from a bowl, then a little filling, then a little cheese, and molding them one at a time. This is the kind of thing that would make me feel nutty. In general, I like doing tasks all at once and then the next thing all at once. It feels more efficient. Virgo moon.

A mix-in means mixing it all in (ingredients, sauces, cheese, etc) and not stamping them out or filling the center. You would just mix it all in, scoop, mold, and bread them. A few reasons you would do a mix-in:

  • You feel like it! Truly.

  • You are making vegan arancine. The rice is still delicious, but less cheese and egg means the rice needs more help. We used to love to smoosh butternut squash or toum through the rice to give it some more creaminess.

  • You have lots of little bits of things, and you want to use everything up. Throw it all into the rice for an even distribution of tiny amounts.

  • You are making pasta or soup-inspired arancine like Cacio e pepe or Split Pea.

The third technique would be to do both! Mix ingredients into the rice, stamp them out, add something to the center, and mold. For instance, you could flavor the rice with pesto and leave the center cheese. Or if you wanted to cook the rice with squid ink and fill the center with shrimp and buerre blanc. It’s really up to you.

a lil video

with beurre blanc

(one of our favorite things to stuff inside an arancine)

The recipe is available for Cripes! level subscribers below.

*Saute garlic scapes with an oil with a high smoke point (my favorite is this Algae Cooking oil which is extremely neutral and effective.) And don’t put beurre blanc on scorching hot food like I did or it will break! Tehe.

R E C I P E S

(for CRIPES level subscribers only)

Basil Pesto, Garlic Scape Pesto, Toum, + Beurre Blanc

Mi dispiace, to gain access to these recipes, you must be a paid Cripes! level Subscriber. It’s $9 a month, and we are obsessed with making this thing good—especially the recipes. Upgrade your subscription here. Thank you. We hope you cook these recipes! Email if you have any questions about them.

Also, if you are a subscriber or have been given a subscription, please create an account and/or log in on the site to view your recipes and more. Logging in also provides access to all of our past newsletters with more recipes.

Recipes included in your subscription:

Pane Cunzatu

Sundried Tomato Paste

Amogghio

Domenico’s Wife

Lemon Mayo

Garlic Chicken

Nonna’s Garlic Sauce

Pine Nut Currant Sauce for Swordfish

Baked Swordfish

Classic Caramel

Ricotta Whippp

Meringue

Strawberry and Sungold Tomato Magma

Sicilian Squash Vessel

Enza’s Spread

Lina’s Salad

Potato Salad

Arancine Rice

Corn Cake?

Not Her Pasta Pie

PIC/PEC

Fried Eggplant

Nonna’s Tomato Sauce

Eggplant Parm

Basil Pesto

Garlic Scape Pesto

Beurre Blanc

Toum

Anne Garréta

LIPARI ISLAND Book Club

august 2 @1p on ZOOM
Sphinx was published in 1986 and is a landmark text in the feminist, LGBT, and experimental literary canons. Support our online bookshop ARCHESTRATUS on Bookshop.org. 

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